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CHANEL魅惑夜巴黎 星光閃爍

不只是YSL對星星有感覺,CHANEL(香奈兒)明年春夏在夜巴黎星空照耀下,服裝上有眾星閃爍,部分融入紅白條紋的套裝讓夏夜也具有美國味;設計總監Karl Lagerfeld運用新的肩線處理,讓女人肩部線條柔軟,加上無所不在的蝴蝶結,這是個十分柔美的春夏女裝系列。報導:薛佳甯 攝影:張桓誠

CHANEL在YSL隔天、同一場地辦秀,一進到CHANEL秀場內便被星空布景包圍著,設計總監Karl Lagerfeld將繁星視為春夏重點圖案,星星印花長洋裝與珠繡外罩衫組合而成的晚禮服,出現在星空布景圍繞著的大皇宮內像極是被投射夜巴黎星光般,十分迷人。星星另外也與紅白條紋作融合,例如星星短洋裝搭配有金屬鍊的西裝外套,讓仲夏夜也帶點活潑美國風格。

蝴蝶結在洋裝領口、鞋跟、頭飾處處可見,現代的CHANEL girl還是不能忘情甜美俏皮的小事物。說到裝飾配件部分,秀上模特兒一提著亮片、CC Logo的大手提包出場,場內時尚編輯們同聲讚美它,明年春夏CHANEL包的Must-have Item已出爐了。 

PARIS, October 5, 2007 – Nuits d'Été, it was called, which gave some clue to at least a few of the dozen or so things that were going on at Chanel. Summer Nights, Grease, fifties Americana? Maybe that would explain the opening of blue-jean everything, from jackets to trenches, wide-leg jeans to dungarees, and, yes, bathing costumes—and then the parade of star prints and red-and-white striped jackets, and the Ronettes singing Be My Baby in the background. Really, though, it looked more as if Karl Lagerfeld had set off with a cry of "Let's see how many trends of the season we can tick off this time." So, apart from the fifties, and the stripes and the stars (which have been shown elsewhere, but not in the flag sense), Lagerfeld checked off transparency, in the bottom half of organza evening looks; ran exhaustively through the all-in-one, from overalls to silk pajama types to teddies; and also touched on masculine-feminine tailoring, the big shoulder (with a new side-loaded epaulette), ballerina lengths, gold—oh, and soft, thirties circle cutting (actually, he was the first with that one, over at Fendi). In other words, it was the regular Chanel ready-to-wear tsunami of style, strewn with a plethora of surface devices like grommets and portholes (in a bag) and loaded with pearls, chains, bows, bangles, buttons, and star-strung jewelry. Though it teetered on the brink of that other Parisian trend, randomness (the one Rei Kawakubo brought up at Comme), Lagerfeld kept the Chanel classics bobbing along on the surface as a lifeline to the elegance-seekers of the world. Some of the jackets—like the multilayered white chiffon—and the simple fitted dresses, with flattering circles of paillettes in the flanks, had the true stamp of the investment about them—the sort of dateless things that transcend any transient trend. – Sarah Mower


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